We choose to cheat on this walk by taking a taxi (there are no buses) for the long climb out of town and up on to the moor. (There's still 1400 ft of ascent, however!)

Then you walk up past the two Barden dams and reservoirs. The views back over the water and across to Simon's Seat are wonderful.

After the top dam there's another long, gentle climb onto Rylstone Fell and more big views, this time towards Pendle and the big hills of the north. Then you could go straight down to the beautiful hamlet of Rylstone (home of the real 'Calendar Girls') but we choose to divert up to the impressive Rylstone Cross.

Finally it's back down a farm track into the delightful hamlet of Rylstone then a bus or taxi back into town.

This walk 'as is' is enough for us, so we take a taxi up to the Black Hill lay-by at the summit of Moor Lane (BD23 6EZ).

(See the alternative route on the OS map if you want to drive here and make this into a circular walk.)

From the lay-by walk onwards and down the hill, then turn on to the gated road to the left on to the estate. The lower dam and reservoir are in front of you. Follow the farm road down and round to the right. There is no public access to the lower dam, so at the bottom, follow the moor road around to the left then skirt the western edge of the reservoir. Be sure to check out the pretty gills which pass beneath this track.

At the far end of the reservoir you have a decision to make. If you carry on on the road, you will soon have to cross a ford. We have only ever done this in nice weather but I guess it might be a challenge in the wet. The alternative is to turn off right and cross the head of the reservoir via a foot bridge. There is then a steep narrow path through the bracken on the far side, back up onto one of the moor lanes. Look down to your left and see the ford you have avoided and the pretty shooters' shelters known as 'Brass Castle'. They look like Hobbit houses. Shortly you will join the road you left earlier.

Now it's a long steady climb up to the top reservoir. You will see the layered earth top dam in front of you. (Should you see any water trickling out, please stick your finger in the hole.)

Next to the dam is a building that looks to me like the Bates Motel. There is nothing to sit on on the dam itself, so if you are ready for a rest, best take it here.

Walk the length of the dam then follow the winding lane at the far end as it climbs up onto Rylstone Fell. Notice the shooters' hides on your right.

Throughout this section of the walk you will see the Cracoe Obelisk on the skyline to the right. To the best of my knowledge there is no direct path to there from here. So that's another walk for another day.

At the top you come to a T-junction with the path which runs direct from the point at which you started your walk. You could turn left to circle back to the lay-by, but we're going to turn right towards Rylstone.

Follow the vehicle track until it bears left towards Embsay Crag. We then go right on a smaller path towards 'Monument Ridge'. This path gets smaller and smaller the closer you get to the ridge. Here you get excellent views across to Crookrise Crag and Waterfall Gill to the left, then Sharp Haw and Rough Haw in front, and in the distance Pendle Hill.

Eventually you will reach a gate in the boundary wall of the ridge. If you have had enough by now, you can pass through the gate and go straight ahead and down into Rylstone.

(If you have energy to spare, you could turn left. This will lead you to the steep descent into Waterfall Gill. You will then have to find a way to cross Waterfall Beck - other websites say you can “rock hop” but I had to wade! You then have the climb out the other side then onwards to the Crookrise Crag trig point then on to Embsay reservoir. This is not an easy walk.)

But today we are going to turn right and follow the stony path that tracks the wall up to Rylstone Cross. Watch your footing - loads of scope here to twist an ankle. At the first 'false summit' there is a nasty rock step down which can be easily avoided by diverting around to the right. You cannot, however, avoid the short, steep descent immediately after it.

Carry on following the wall and eventually you will see the ladder stile over the wall and onto the promontory which holds the cross. I'm sure you will agree it was worth the effort. A great place for a picnic. Below you notice the pretty church in the middle distance. It is in Rylstone - the end point of today's walk.

Sometimes climbers will suddenly appear up the vertical face of the rock beneath the cross.

When you're ready, retrace your steps back down to the gate we saw earlier and turn right to come down off the hill. This path gets wider as you progress along it. Be sure to check out the views back up to the cross as you descend.

At the bottom pass through the gate and turn right on the farm road, then left at the junction, then right again through the gate onto the track through the Bolton Abbey estate. This is a 'long cut' but avoids walking on the dangerous A-road which does not have a footpath. When you get to Rylstone Church turn left down into the hamlet. Watch out for the plastic cow!

On week days you can catch the Skipton bus home from the side of the duck pond - but you will need to check times. On Sundays, however, it takes a different route and doesn't stop here. So we normally call an Uber which typically gets here in 15 minutes or so.

This walk is mostly on private grouse moor that belongs to the Bolton Abbey Estate and access is by 'permissive' paths. So please keep to them. Also realise that the moor will often be closed during the shooting season - August to December(?) I have searched online for a schedule of closure dates but have yet to find one. Please e-mail me a link if you have one and I will add it here.